3 Kings Journey - Lesson 3
QuiltingCoach Penny

Now that all of the blocks are sewn, it's time to add the sashing and cornerstones, which means it's also time to figure out how “off” the blocks are.
It turned out that all of my blocks are 9 1/2 inches high, and they vary between 8 3/4 inches and 8 7/8 inches wide. Since the width is such a small difference, that won't cause any problems.
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| Place the sashing on your blocks as you will sew it. |
Since there were 2 blocks that were 8 3/4 inches wide and two that were 8 7/8 inches wide, I placed the two 8 3/4 inch blocks on the left side of the quilt and the 8 7/8 inch blocks on the right side of the quilt. That way, any difference won't be noticeable.
Usually 1/8 inch difference can be adjusted by simply stretching the block.
Each one of the seams gives a little and it all can be eased in. Since these patches are sewn down onto a foundation, there is very little stretch in the patches.
Sewing to a foundation makes it easier to keep the blocks in shape, but more critical to be sure that the sewing is accurate so they end up the same size.
Adding Sashing Between the Blocks
The first step is to add the sashing pieces between the blocks.
In my quilt, these are simple strips, each cut 1 1/2 inches wide and the height of the block – 9 1/2 inches.
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Match the top and bottom of the sashing with your block |
Line up the sashing strip facing it right side toward the block, match the ends and the raw edges.
Sew the strip onto the side of the block, sewing through all layers – sashing, quilt top, batting and backing. You do not need to backstitch as you add the sashing.
Once the sashing has been sewn, turn it so the right side faces up.
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| Open the sashing once it has been sewn. |
Now you are ready to sew the blocks together. Place the block without the sashing so it faces right side up on your table.
In the picture below, that block is on the bottom.
Separate the sashing from the batting and backing on the block you just added the sashing to.
Place the sashing so it faces right sides together with the bottom block. Line up the ends and the raw edge.
Because the sashing strip is the length of the blocks, the ends should line up fairly well. If they don't check to see whether the patches on your block are on the outline you drew on the batting. If they extend beyond the outline, you need to decide whether your sashing will match the actual block or the outline.
In my case, I matched the outline because a few of the patches extended outside the line, but most of them were right on the line.
Pin the sashing in place, and then sew through the sashing, quilt top, batting and backing of the second block.
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Pin the sashing and sew through the sashing, quilt top, batting and backing. |
You should now have two blocks sewn together for the quilt top. The batting and backing will be sticking out on the other side.
Check to see that the tops and bottoms of the blocks line up with each other and the sashing.
In the picture below, you may see that the top of the left block is slightly above the sashing. Notice that the bottoms line up.
The block on the left is a little “off.” Because it is all sewn onto the foundation, I left it to be adjusted as I added the sashing between the rows.
Repeat this process with all of the blocks in the rows of your quilt. In my quilt, there are two blocks in two rows. If your quilt is larger, you will add sashing between the blocks in all of the rows.
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| Your blocks are sewn together with the sashing betwee, and you are now ready to close the backing. |
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