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TAKE A TOUR | TOUR: Clear and Easy to Understand S . . .
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TOUR: Clear and Easy to Understand Step-by-Step Instructions
The following is just a sample of the clear step-by-step instructions you get as a member of TheQuiltingCoach.com.
Adding Sashing to your Trick or Treat at the Haunted House Quilt Now that all of the blocks are finished, it's time to put them together to make the quilt top. This quilt was designed to have sashing with cornerstones between the blocks. This creates distance between the blocks and adds to the 3 dimensional look of these windows. As I considered the color for my sashing, I knew I wanted something dark that would stand out, so I tried both black and brown. I settled with brown, since the black just didn't seem to look right. The brown fabric has a small print that adds some texture, but doesn't add much of a design feature.
The cornerstones were made orange because I wanted them to set the windows apart from each other. Step 1
The first step is to make all of your blocks the same size. That will be done by trimming the Window Frame pieces off, since you don't want to ruin the block design.
Trim the window frame portion of the blocks so they are all the same size.
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Measure each of the blocks to find out which is the smallest. That will be the size to make all of the blocks. My smallest block was 10 3/4 inches square. All of my blocks will be trimmed to that size.
The easiest way to trim the blocks is if you have a square ruler. Then, you simply place the ruler over the entire block, and line the block up with the measurement on the ruler.
For example, in the picture on the left, the Witch block is placed under the ruler so that everything under the ruler measures 10 3/4 inches square. The remaining fabric will be trimmed off to make the block the right size.
Once you have figured out where to cut the block, trim both sides. Note that you will only trim the Window Frame pieces.
If your ruler has a diagonal line from corner to corner, check to see that the diagonal is close to (better yet, actually lined up with) the diagonal in your window frame.
Trim all of your blocks to the same size. This will be the size of your sashing strips. Step 2
When you have the measurement for your sashing, cut the strips. For this quilt, you will need 17 pieces of sashing each measuring 10 3/4 inches long.
The width of your sashing can vary according to your preference. I added 2 inch sashing, making my cutting measurement for the strips 2 1/2 inches wide by 10 3/4 inches long.
Next cut squares for the center cornerstones. The sides of your cornerstone will be the same as the width of your sashing -- 2 1/2 inches square, if you are following this pattern. You will need 6 cornerstone squares. Step 3
Arrange your blocks on a flannel wall, or floor, or wherever you have to lay them out.
Place the sashing and cornerstone pieces between the blocks to check the arrangement, and see how you like it.
Add the sashing pieces to the right side of each of the blocks in the left row and the center row.
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Next step is to begin sewing the sashing onto the blocks and then sewing everything together. I like to work in vertical rows -- from top to bottom.
So, I take the block in the upper left corner and place it right sides together with the sashing just to the right of the block in the same row.
Proceed down the two columns of blocks. If your quilt is larger, follow the same process for all of the blocks in your quilt.
Borders will be added later, and sashing will go only between the blocks, not on the outside.
The sashing strips for between the rows will be sewn together separately.
If you would like to keep your blocks in order, I find that stacking them one column at a time and placing the block in the top row on the top of the stack, followed by the block in the second row, etc. helps.
Now you are ready to either pin or sew. I usually pin the blocks and sashing, matching corners and seams.
You will notice that there is some "give" in these blocks. Not so much in the sashing since it is a strip of fabric without seams. This allows some flexibility as you match the corners. Just be sure that you are not stretching too much or trying to "ease in" too much.
If you stretch too much, you will end up with puckers, and if you try to ease in too much, you may end up with tucks. Either will detract from your finished quilt.
Since you are sewing a block onto a strip of sashing, the only things to watch are the corners, the edges of the fabric, and the direction of your seam allowances.
In keeping with having the larger piece of work on the bottom, I sew the strip onto the block, with the sashing strip on top.
Because the block, with all of its seam allowances, is on the bottom, check to be sure that the seam allowances are still pointing the correct direction. Step 4
Once the last block is sewn, take the entire "chain" off the machine. Leaving the blocks hooked together (do not cut the threads between the blocks), go back to your wall, bed, table, floor, or wherever you have the remaining blocks arranged, and unfold the pairs that you just sewed.
Although it is awkward to handle, leaving the threads attached will keep your blocks in the order you want to sew them. This is especially helpful when you are sewing a larger quilt, and it is more difficult to keep track of the order of the blocks.
Fold the blocks in the second column on top of the blocks in the first column, so the right sides of the fabric are facing each other.
Place at least one pin in each of the block pairs to be sure that you will sew them together correctly.
Sew the blocks into rows
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Carry them to your sewing machine and chain sew them together.
This time, you will be sewing with the sashing on the bottom. This makes it easier, since the sashing has no seam allowances in it. You will be able to see all of the seam allowances in your block and keep track of them to be sure they stay facing the direction you want them to face.
Once these are sewn together, return them to your flannel wall and line the rows up with the remaining column of blocks.
Fold over the last row of blocks, matching the rows, and having the right sides of the fabric facing each other.
You may want pin the blocks to the sashing as they get folded over. That will help keep them organized when you carry all of it over to your sewing machine.
After you are settled at your sewing machine, find the top row. Pin the new block onto the sashing, matching the corners and edges of the block to the sashing.
Once again, you will be sewing with the sashing on the bottom, and you will be able to see all of the seam allowances in your block. Keep track of them to be sure they stay facing the direction you want them to face.
Use enough pins to be sure that the corners of the block line up with the corners of the sashing and that the raw edges of the block and sashing stay lined up as well.
Once the last column of blocks has been sewn to the rows, return the quilt top to your flannel wall, and open up all the rows, and cut the rows apart. Step 5
Now it is time to sew the sashing strips together. These are the strips that will go between the rows on the quilt.
Sew the orange cornerstone pieces onto 6 of the brown strips, using the chain sewing method. Set the remaining 3 strips aside.
Sew the sashing strips together
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This should be fairly easy. You will be sewing pieces of fabric, with no extra seams, and the sides should be exactly the same size.
Once these are sewn, remove them from the machine, and cut the strips apart.
Open the cornerstone pieces so everything faces right sides out. Make 3 pairs of strips, lining up a cornerstone with a solid strip.
Chain sew these 3 pairs together, making 3 strips. Each strip has 2 brown strips and 2 square cornerstones.
Now, take the 3 strips you set aside earlier, and attach one to each of the strips that have the cornerstones sewn in.
Once done, you should have 3 strips. Each one has 3 brown strips separated by 2 orange cornerstone squares (or whatever color you are using). Step 6
Place the sashing strips between the rows of blocks on your flannel wall.
In this picture, the sashing strips have been placed on top of the rows of blocks.
Add the sashing to each of the rows, and then sew the rows together to complete the top.
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Next, turn one of the sashing strips up onto the bottom of a row of blocks, facing right sides of the fabric together.
Carry this over to your sewing machine and attach the sashing strip to the row of blocks.
Match the cornerstones with the sashing pieces between the blocks in the rows.
If you have dark fabric for your sashing, fold the seam allowances toward the dark sashing on both the strips with the cornerstones as well as the sashing between the blocks.
This will allow the cornerstones to nestle nicely between the blocks.
Add the sashing strips to the bottom of the second and third rows using the same matching process. Step 7
Once all of the sashing strips have been added to the rows of blocks, it is time to sew the rows together to complete the quilt top.
Fold the top row down onto the second row, right sides together, and pin the rows together in a couple of places just to be sure you will sew the right blocks together. Once you are at your sewing machine, match the cornerstone in the horizontal sashing with the sashing between the blocks in the top row.
And make sure that the raw edges of the blocks and sashing line up.
The seam allowances in the second row of blocks should already be folded toward the sashing strips. And the seam allowances between the cornerstones and sashing should be folded toward the sashing. By continuing this pattern, your seam allowances in those two rows will be facing opposite directions, and the seams will nestle together nicely as you sew the row of blocks onto the strip of sashing.
Sew the remaining rows together to complete the quilt top.
You are now ready to add borders.
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Penny Halgren
TheQuiltingCoach
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